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Preparation and evaluation of a biopolymer-based safe alternative to phthalate plasticizers in cosmetics

Logeshvar Manimaran, Kunal Kishore, T. Hemachandar, Selvasudha Nandakumar, and Hannah R. Vasanthi

Centre for Biotechnology, Alagappa College of Technology, Anna University, Chennai, India

Received: 12 December 2024 Accepted: 18 August 2025

Abstract:

Synthetic plasticizers are endocrine disruptors found in most consumer products, including cosmetics, that disrupt the functioning of the endocrine systems, and phthalates are a key one. The globe is looking for substitutes for these phthalates due to their adverse effects. Therefore, the present study aimed to develop an alternative to phthalates using biopolymers. The combination of naturally derived polysaccharides and a non-ionic surfactant (Tween) was identified as an alternative for phthalate as it exhibited gelling and surface-active properties, which are the essential properties of a plasticizer. The various concentrations of both the polysaccharides (sodium alginates and gellan gum), cross-linking agent (CaCl₂), and the non-ionic surfactant (Tween 80) were screened based on the viscosity. The best combination (GTC) (gellan gum (0.27%), Cacl2 (1.5%) and Tween 80 (0.01%)) was selected, which exhibited viscosity (11.1 mPas) equivalent to dibutyl phthalate (DBP), which is around 12.0034 mPaS, with an excellent gelling property of the combination. In vitro, analytical characterizations and biological evaluations were carried out for the final formulation. The intermolecular H–bond between gellan gum and Tween 80 was confirmed by FTIR. The amorphous nature of the final composition studied by XRD and DSC analysis reveals its enhanced solubility due to the surface active properties of the optimized composition. The FRAP, ABTS, and DPPH assay proved its dose-dependent antioxidant activity. Moreover, the alternative demonstrated cell viability, enhanced migration, and no apoptosis even at high doses of 2000 µg/ml of GTC tested, representing its safety. In comparison, only 17% of cells were viable at a dose of 1000 µg/ml for DBP, which exhibited cytotoxicity even at low doses in L929 fibroblast cell lines. The alternative’s biodegradation and forced degradation studies proved its positive impact on the environment. Altogether, the developed alternative exhibited similar physicochemical properties as phthalates while having negligible cytotoxicity and potential antioxidant activity, which is necessary for most consumer products, mainly cosmetics. Hence, it can be utilized safely for cosmetic applications. However, further in vivo studies are warranted to identify its systemic effects.

Keywords: Endocrine disruptors; Phthalates; Plasticizer; Polysaccharides; Surfactant; Biodegradation

Full paper is available at www.springerlink.com.

DOI: 10.1007/s11696-025-04320-0

Chemical Papers 79 (12) 8383–8394 (2025)